![]() For spirited driving on the street, I think the Vincebar is more than sufficient as it also helps keep stock aesthetics and retains full functionality of your trunk space.įor underside plates, I believe Redish Motorsports out of the UK offer the best solution based on their experience, I believe they said that ideally you would still want to do weld-in plates as the plug welds help coalesce the numerous RACP layers into a much sturdier singular structure. The CMP does seem beefier and may be more applicable if your car was a dedicated track toy. *"The threaded hole in the middle is part of my procedure (drilled diameter 10 mm from under the car and then threaded M12x1,5 from bottom up to match existing thread) and is not there originally.Īdditional info not related to the brace.Both topside bars more or less serve the same functional purpose. Using supplied tools (51mm whole saw, drill guide) you will have a guide to drill the sheet metal perfectly as follows Perfectly centered by the ID of the threaded receivers M12 thread.ħ. This takes us through the top of the threaded receiver, and finally through the "floor pan" behind the rear seat. Here is how I carried out this reinforcement :ĭrilled a 10 mm hole from the underside of the car (sub-frame removed). Because we are replacing the entire floor it will not need to be cut off as seen above and below. You can see here below how others cut this cover off. Circle hole cut into rear floor cover to access bolts in the future. Proper Coating and sealer to prevent rust/corrosionĥ. This first picture here shows the BRACE in position, although it is the rivet/epoxy version shown NOT the welded version I have, which is why you see differences including and extra plate under the bar.Ĥ. "Please note that the plates are welded to the chassis legs though plug welds in the holes, AS WELL AS with a continuous fillet weld around all of the perimeter that the plate has against the chassis leg." It would be a good idea to insert the OE bolt as a "drill stop" such that you won't unintentionally drill out the existing thread)."ģ. You should be fine simply enlarging that new part of the hole by drilling a 12mm clearance hole from the top. I threaded the new part of the holes with a M12x1,5 (this is a bit finer pitched than the standard M12x1,75) tap (EDIT: taping the new part of the holes is probably overkill. Additional picture shows 90 degree BRACE mount From underneath the car drill up through the existing rear sub-frame mounts using the 10mm drill bit - tap thread from the bottom up to follow existing threadĢ. Tap the hole and grind surrounding area flat. Toolkit with drill bit, drill guide, tap and custom made bolts are all includedġ. I am creating this as a quick reference guide for my installer. ![]()
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January 2023
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